Digitalism Magazine Looks at Chinese Jewellery Brands

Chinese Jewellery Brands

chinese jewellery brands poster by Anuppa Caleekal
Chinese Jewellery brands are starting to make a distinct mark in the international arena of fine jewellery.
Some of the noteworthy Chinese jewellery brands which seem to be getting a closer look by jewellery lovers in China as well internationally are Chow Tai Fook, TTF , Qeelin, Bao Bao Wan, and Shang Xia.
Digitalism Online Magazine looks at the artistic and cultural characteristics seen in these collections of Chinese jewellery brands.

In recent years the Chinese jewellery market has been shown to be gaining strength both in terms of consumer consumption within China and a recognition of Chinese jewellery brands in the world market.
According to the Euromonitor, the year 2014 showed a retail value growth increase of 18 percent. This was said to be attributed to many favourable factors in play. Some of these factors are, 2014 was an auspicious year for weddings(Year of the Horse), the growing middle class with the availability of an increase in disposable income, accompanied by urbanization and thirdly, the government placement of the second-child policy which in general encouraged growth and traditional investment in jewellery such as gold . (read more

In China, Chow Tai Fook has been one of the oldest and largest traditional Chinese jewellery brands. As the Chinese New Year February 19, 2015 embarks with the Year of the Goat/Ram/Sheep
what better way to wear the luck of the year than by wearing it with jewellery. Here are some of the Chow Tai Fook Year of the Sheep/Goat/Ram gold jewellery collection.

golden key




joyeous sheep









filial sheep



Auspicious Sheep by










The more contemporary Chinese jewellery brands are TTF, Qeelin, Bao Bao and Shang -xia.

Among these newer Chinese jewellery brands TTF is gaining prominence in Europe especially in Paris’ high end jewellery circles. Frank Wu from Shenzhen, China, established TTF Haute Joaillerie. TTF reflects a style within Chinese jewellery brands which do not imitate western jewellery but try and get an excellence in producing the proud display of Chinese artistry in elegance and design along with their historic talent in meticulous craftsmanship and manufacturing skills. What is becoming clear is that the Chinese jewellery industry is taking serious efforts in brand building.
Chinese jewellery industry is placing a central focus on efforts to build distinct jewellery brands which are strong , long lasting and competitive.. It is no longer just about manufacturing at a lower world market price but to be able to build a brand that has world demand with a stroke of Chinese elegance. For instance TTF developed 3 series which profiled new upcoming young designers.
The Qipao Series. “The Year of the Horse” and Chinese Zodiac series and the “White jade lotus” collection

The inspiration behind TTF’s The Qipao Series is a jewellery design which depicts the elegance of embroidery femininity style ,cut and simplicity of the traditional Chinese ladies’long dress.

TTF Jewellery China Qipao series








TTF’s The Chinese Zodiac series with the Year of the Horse jewellery

ttf Haute Joaillerie Year of the Horse







and TTF’s  the white jade lotus

“White jade lotus” collection by ttf Haute Joaillerie








Other pieces of TTF’s magnificent pieces of jewellery shown below can be seen at

ttf Haute Joaillerie


ttf Haute Joaillerie2










ttf Haute Joaillerie3

To know more behind the Frank Wu, the man who established TTF Haute Joailleri, see


ttf Haute Joaillerie4









ttf Haute Joaillerie5


ttf Haute Joaillerie 6










Qeelin is a Chinese jewellery brand which was founded in 2004 by Hongkong native Dennis Chan and Frenchman Guillaume Brochard. Qeelin derives its name from “Qillin” which is the mythical figure considered to be very auspicious In China, a symbol of love and protection.
So the alliance of the two founder cultures reflected Qeelin’s design composition being a blend of Chinese contemporary culture side by French skills in jewellery settings and craftsmanship. Their sales came to gain attention and recognition in early 2014 by players such as luxury conglomerate Kering, who acquired the majority stake in the company. Read more( recognized in an European or foreign overseas market almost seems to bring more demand and validity to “made in china” goods especially for Chinese consumers who love foreign brand names. Kering’s display of Qeelin can be seen at
Qeelin designed the robots pendant in precious stones.

robot pendant by QEELIN-

















Queelin reflects a nouveau. young ,fun loving, cute, chic urban luxury look
which reflects the brave new world of China.







Bao Bao is also among leading contemporary Chinese jewellery brands founded by designer Wan Baobao in 2007. Her jewellery designs have come to be known as “wearable art” Being the granddaughter of one of the ruling Communist elites during the eighties, Bao Bao would have understood liberation in the context of her elite upbringing during communist China as well as in a luxury driven and brand culture of modern capitalist China.

Bao Bao started with the idea of fusion of Chinese and western culture being central to the nature of its brand building. (read more(
The magnificent creations of “wearable art” as Bao Bao calls her creations can be seen at following photos of Bao Bao floral and Pagoda Ring and the diamond pearl ice cream cone are good examples of “wearable art”

Bao Bao Wan floral ring

Bao Bao Wan pagoda ring









BaoBao Bon Bon collection









Today Bao Bao has become the first of Chinese jewellery brands to open a store in luxury retailer Harrods in London.(read more

Shang -xia is a lifestyle art of living brand which profiles Chinese crafts and is owned 90 percent by Hermes, the French luxury goods group and 10 percent by Chinese native Jiang Qiong Er who is the artistic director and chief executive of Shang -xia which was founded in 2008.
According to Jiang Qiong Er, the only true luxuries we have as humans are not material but rather, “time and emotion” which is incorporated into her design outlook. (Read more (
The jewellery component of Shang -xia can be seen in the Essence Series of
Shang -xia. Reviving imperial jewellery filgiri inlay with gold and diamonds into polished wood can be seen in the following picture of a diamond in this simplistic wood pendant.

Essence by





Shang -xia jewellery style is simplistic and reflects the art of living in contradictions. The following piece

called The Couple shows these simplistic contradictions apparent in Shang -xia jewellery style.

the couple by







The present trend in developing Chinese jewellery brands is to recognize the fact that the art and design of Chinese jewellery craftsmanship is centuries in the making, however building the art of jewellery into formidable Chinese jewellery brands is a very new movement.
To make this brand building strong, one almost has to drown the associations of Made in China to be synonymous with cheap, inexpensive and lacking in quality .The “made in china” labels which has made Chinese manufacturing reputation suffer in the more recent past has cost Chinese brand building to have challenges. It is realized for many Chinese designers that Chinese brand building is a long term process and is not something that can be made into an overnight success. Chinese jewellery brands need the world market especially the West to endorse and give it a seal of approval before local affluent and middle class Chinese consumers accept it as something that is sought after and in demand. The present trend in China to build Chinese jewellery brands as part of lifestyle and luxury goods revives the rich elegant, cultural art and handicrafts of old imperial china with the concepts of beauty and sophistication of a modern booming economy of capitalist China.
The task in brand building for modern China is partly to raise a nouveau apolitical cultural revolution as such which has a vogue and cosmopolitan edge in raising the sentiment of “China Power” . This sentiment has to transpire not just in jewellery , but in all fashion and lifestyle design luxury goods markets within the Chinese economy as well as abroad. With present day China having an increased purchasing power in global markets, the design task is almost an attempt to assimilate Chinese elegance as a fashion statement with a prominence within the realm of world culture. Just as non western designs from India, Africa, Latin America and Middle eastern influences have inspired and penetrated the mainstream of western design models , China is in good economic position today to indulge in entering the design of world luxury goods .The liberation of modern Chinese women in a luxury, career, and urban driven “china power” movement will no doubt be a significant determinant in the future of building Chinese jewellery brands.
When it comes to buying brands, the Chinese consumer in China still places foreign brands as top luxury items to aspire towards. If Chinese jewellery brands are well received and are recognized in sales revenue overseas, then consumers within China will also want to have it.

 Chinese Jewellery Brands written by Anuppa Caleekal for Digitalism Online Magazine January, 22, 2015. Copyright © Anuppa Caleekal –  image, text or part of, may not be duplicated without written permission.

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